Metal Carport Technical Specifications

Quality Carports Available Direct From The Source!
We at Absolute Steel are dedicated to constant improvement. Please take a moment to understand the technical aspects of our structures. We’ve tried to keep this information simple to understand and when used, any explanations or pictures of similar products are furnished only for comparative evaluation.

Carport Exterior Panels
It should be of some importance for you to know that Absolute Steel is one of the largest, independent distributors of metal panels in the USA. Thus, you would be correct in assuming we know steel panels whether these are being used for roofing or exterior walls and that our expertise has been substantiated from thousands of satisfied customers through years of experience.

Paint Finish
A very important factor in your choice of paneling should be the paint finish. Absolute Steel uses only Fabral brand panels because their paint finish is comprised of a ten layer process topped with Super Alurite® 2000 which is a paint system that takes performance to the next level. Based on cutting edge resin technology, this system offers unbeatable durability, superior color retention and resistance to dirt accumulation. Super Alurite® 2000 is the choice for low maintenance, lasting beauty and outstanding value.

Further, you can have the comfort of knowing that all our exterior panels are Made In America and come with the best guarantee in the industry:

• Standard galvanized coating
• 30-year non-prorated film integrity warranty for walls and roofs
• 25-year warranty against fade and chalk for walls and roofs

This paint system is then applied to structural steel panels having 80,000-psi minimum yield strength.

Yield Strength
This is a measurement of stress at which a material undergoes a permanent strain or where the material is said to “yield” or starts to “go plastic”. In this case, 80,000 pounds or 40 tons of pressure per square inch. Translation: This is some tough stuff!

Frame System
There is a reason our frame systems have been chosen for their corrosive resistant qualities by all the branches of the US Armed Forces and for such unique situations as inside the Ohio salt mines of Cargill Salt.

The super structure of our frame systems is comprised of 2” x 3” 14 and 15 gauge steel tube and on our gambrels we use some 13 gauge. Applied to this steel tube is a galvanized outer layer and over that, there is a patented clear coat for maximum corrosion protection. Varying degrees of steel strength is used, each based upon the level of stress that particular part requires.

Base Rails/Side Walls
55000-psi minimum yield strength

Peaks/Eaves
65000-psi minimum yield strength

The competition uses 50000-psi minimum yield strength or less.

Now let’s look at how the different components of our steel building system are made and why:

Base Rail System
A better foundation.
You know that the base of a structure is one of the most critical. It is from the foundation of a building that its strength is derived. This is why Absolute Steel uses an “insert system” which means none of these critical parts, which bear the weight of the structure, contain any connections that have been reduced by machines that crush, roll or bend the steel. Instead of using 15 gauge tube which has been stressed, fractured or otherwise compromised in such a manner, we use a thicker 14 gauge insert that fits into the accompanying wall piece a full 12 inches.

This method requires a bit more labor but the benefits, in addition to strength, are obvious:

1. At the bottom, where water or condensation can collect, you have thick and uniform connections that are much better than swaged inserts (any mechanical reduction process accomplished by machine) that have “thinned walls”.
2. 12” inserts that extend upward give you more adjustment capability when dealing with any site irregularities and uncompromised steel gives you the strength to do so.
3. You will always have a consistent fit. You’ll never need a sledgehammer to pound parts together because someone’s swaging machine needs adjustment.

The Worst Connection

A Better Connection

The BEST Connection

Side Walls
Easier assembly and stronger walls.
You know that a sidewall that’s made up of several parts cannot be as strong as one that’s a solid piece.

1. Single one-connection pieces that run from the base rails to the eave give you more strength on your sidewalls.
2. By using one-piece walls, we eliminate more parts for you to put together.
3. You get a straight wall every time and get a wall that can easily be adjusted to any custom height you want.

Here’s a picture of an insert system that uses different height extensions (another inserted piece) to accomplish varying sidewalls heights:

Multi-Piece Sidewall It stands to reason that the more parts you have, the less overall strength you'll have. Not to mention the extra work involved!

Single Piece Sidewall This is ours. There's no additional parts to mess with, and by virtue of there being no connections, you'll have a stonger sidewall!

Peaks / Eave Bend
Here’s where we excel with the “Power Bend”
Each of our peak and eave bend parts contain unsurpassed strength and exacting standards. We use only steel that has a minimum yield strength of 65000-psi and a superior technology.

You know why modern automobile bodies have some curves and angles on them, don’t you? It’s the same reason an L shaped channel (“angle iron”) is stronger than a straight piece of metal. The curves and angles add strength to the metal.

There’s several different technologies used to accomplish the bends required at peaks and eaves. One is by crushing which weakens the bend at the point of curvature and the other is by rolling the bends into the straight steel.

A rolled bend is vastly superior to a crushed bend (we won’t even discuss a crushed bend further since it is utter junk) but there are different and better ways to roll the bends into the steel for the peaks and eave bends. First, any rolling process that shapes the steel stretches it and this makes the steel thinner at the point(s) where it has been rolled/stretched.

This is why Absolute Steel’s Power Bend is rolled into the curvature at the same time that it is being rolled to create the required bend. The reason for the Power Bend is that strength is needed where some was taken away to make the transition on the peaks and eaves. In fact, the Power Bend adds more strength than was originally taken away!

Our Power Bend adds six more surfaces with condensed angles and curves to strengthen the peaks and eave bends where they need it…remember the car body?

To illustrate our point, take a look at these pictures of the Mandrel Bend:

This system brags of a “smooth mandrel bend for a cleaner look and a stronger bend transition”. That’s a great claim but it doesn’t have much merit. Look at the lineal pattern on the inside of the bend and the marks on the outside—those are stress lines in the steel. You know what’s happening here: the steel has been stretched in the rolling process and it is thinner and weaker than it originally was.

Now here’s the Power Bend:

The Power Bend is accomplished by rolling over the excess steel (not just stretching it out into the part) at the same time that the curvature of the eave or peak is created. The result is that the rolled edges (much like a piece of angle iron does) enhance the integrity of the transition where it is needed most. This process not only retains the original integrity that the steel must have for these important structural components, it adds to the strength and durability.

Anchoring Systems
There are four ways we recommend that you anchor your structure.

1. On Concrete:
(Engineering available) Use a 5 ½” x ½” concrete expansion anchor or “RedHead”. You can get these at most any hardware store.

Installation is by drilling the concrete where the pre-drilled hole in the carport’s base rails are and then inserting the expansion anchor, tapping it down all the way if necessary with a hammer, then placing a washer and threading on the nut (supplied with the anchor) and tightening it down.

2. On the ground, gravel or grass:

Ground Option 1 (No engineering available)
For years these frame kits have been anchored using the 30” ground anchors (available from us). Installation is by sledgehammer or electric jackhammer w/3” cup attachment and driving them into the ground until the flared end meets the base rail.

Ground Option 2 (Engineering available)
On larger units we recommend anchoring the base rails with a concrete caisson under each pre-drilled base rail hole. We make a hole 30” deep by about 8” in diameter. Then lay the base rails down, insert the 30” ground anchor and fill with posthole concrete.

Ground Option 3 (Engineering available)
In lieu of using the concrete caisson application described above, and if engineering is required, we use what’s called a Manta Ray ground anchor or MR-68. These ground clamps are attached to a 36” 3/8ths zinc coated all thread bolt (available at hardware stores). Then another rod is inserted in the remaining hole in the MR-68. One then uses this rod to drive the MR-68 into the ground, leaving about 6” or 8” of the all thread above the surface of the ground. Place your base rail over the 3/8ths all thread rod, slip a washer and nut over the end and tighten the nut down.

	MR-68 Drawing Click Here
	Installation Pictures of MR-68 Click Here